Unlike enlisted men, Civil War officers were required to provide their own uniforms. The result was a wide variety of design and manufacture of coats that actually appeared in the field. This natty jacket was made for a cavalry officer, the galloon on the sleeve sewn with three strands of fabric into a trefoil, indicating the rank of major. All twelve breast buttons are high convex, two-piece cavalry buttons, with "*D. EVANS & CO.*/ATTLEBORO, MASS” depressed mark backmarks (Tice’s CV215A5). The cuff buttons are "*D.EVANS & CO.* SUPERFINE" depressed mark (Tice’s CV222As1).

The collar is velvet, originally black but now faded to a glossy brown. The body of the coat is a fine weave broadcloth. The inner lining, unlike the tailored frock coats of the day, is a cotton fabric, heavily padded with quilted stitching, and showing field use with wear around the edges of the two interior breast pockets. The sleeve linings are white cotton. The three strand trefoil is a fine woven fabric with each strand individually sewn into place, machine stitched. The rear seam of the coat is 20¾”, the sleeves are 5½” at the cuff, increasing to 9½” at the elbow. Functional lapels may be buttoned below the collar buttons to close the coat, or buttoned at the breast to leave the center of the collar open.

This is a nice example of a privately tailored mounted officer's jacket.

Very few Civil War major general’s frock coats are held in private hands today. Although the identity of its first owner is unknown, this coat displays all of the desirable attributes of a Civil War frock coat, with the added bonus of the high rank of its wearer.

The dark indigo blue fabric of the coat is ornamented by a cobalt blue velvet collar and matching regulation 2½" cuff facings, the edges of which show very slight wear. Eighteen breast buttons are correctly arranged in double rows and in groups of three, indicating the major general rank. Each cuff bears three functional buttons, the last of which is located within the velvet facing. All four buttons remain on the rear waist and tails. All buttons are on original thread; the breast and tail buttons are backmarked "*Evans & Hassall, Phila*” and the cuffs, "*Evans & Hassall*.”

The shoulder straps are of the lace-on variety with dark blue velvet field. The ¼” dead bullion border is regulation with bullion wire wraps and two sewn dead bullion stars on each strap.

The coat’s interior has the typical green body lining and correct white cotton sleeve lining. Pockets in both tails are lined with brown cotton. A 1½" brown Russian leather inner belt rims the inside of the coat at the waist, terminating with a pair of metal clasps at the front/center. The breast is moderately padded above the waist with angled quilt pattern stitching. Both button falls are reinforced at the buttonholes with the same indigo fabric.

The velvet collar is 1”, the back seam from the base of the collar to the waist is 18½" and the tails are 18½" in length. The sleeves are 5½" at the cuff, and increase to 8½" at the elbow.

Accompanying the coat are a pair of trousers, tailored from a fine blue fabric that matches the coat. The waist is 34” and the inseam is 33”. The fly retains four metallic buttons, with additional metallic buttons at the waist, pocket closures, and suspender supports. A bone button rests at the inside waist closure. Both cuffs have two hard rubber buttons inside, intended to attach to cloth straps that pass under the foot, thus holding the trousers down in the wearer’s boots. All buttons are on their original thread, once black and now faded to brown. The waist and hips are lined with cotton, faded tan. The pockets and watch pocket are white cotton. A coarse wool fabric lines the inside of each cuff at the hem.

The waist adjuster is of the same indigo material, but is backed with brown cotton linen, and holds a japanned metal clasp which is marked with an 1855 patent date. The exterior seam of the trouser leg is plain and unmarked with any striping, correct for this rank of officer.

Pictured above is an image of General George McClellan wearing a major general's coat and trousers similar to those seen here.

This is an extraordinary example of an identified Civil War infantry officer’s overcoat. The coat is a regulation dark blue, tightly woven wool. Four frogs and loops of black silk fasten the overcoat. It was also closed by a longer thong at the base of the neck. Called a cloak coat, the garment was a copy of the official greatcoat worn by French officers. The body and sleeve linings are bright vermillion-red polished cotton. As the war progressed, the regulations were amended to allow officers to wear enlisted men’s sky blue overcoats to avoid making them less conspicuous in the field.

The coat is identified in ink on the backside of the hook loop located at the neck to Lt. George W. Bates, 14th Illilnois Infantry. Lieutenant Bates enlisted in 1861 and was discharged on February 26, 1864. He participated in the Battles of Fort Donelson and Shiloh where he was in the ranks until ordered to the rear due to sickness. He also participated in the seige of Vicksburg, but afterwards was taken by boat north with little hope of survival.

It was written of Bates, "His moral character was such that the men of his company rallied around him in battle, believing that he had a charmed life, and that they would be safe when under him.” Surviving the war, Bates married and had two daughters, and survived miraculously, but with extremely poor health until February 14, 1901.

This officer’s jacket is in excellent condition with apparent field wear and is an outstanding example of a cavalry officer’s preferred field apparel. This handsome jacket is privately tailored of fine woven wool fabric, exhibiting an attractive sheen typical of Civil War period manufacture coats. Three bands of black lace tape piping are found on the sleeves and two bands on the collar. Such dark insignia was occasionally used by officers to identify rank, yet remain a less conspicuous target to the enemy.

The jacket’s body is lined with dark green polished cotton and the sleeves are lined with white cotton. All 15 staff buttons are matching in patina and on original thread. Measurements on the coat are 1-1/4” height at the collar, a sleeve circumference of 16” at the elbow and 10½” at the cuff.

Shoulder straps as seen on this jacket were available to officers in either traditional bullion embroidery or stamped brass false embroidery, and curved to conform to the shoulder. Metallic straps such as these were patented by James S. Smith on June 18, 1861 and were well received for their durability in the field, though their use was less common than the bullion.

Regulation infantry officer’s frock coat exhibiting extensive field wear, with original captain’s shoulder straps. The coat, which belonged to Major General John Ramsey (then a captain) of New Jersey, is tailored of very fine woven tuxedo quality wool fabric. The coat exhibits some discoloration and moth nips on the shoulder behind the neck, and some minor repairs on the front side. Inside the breast pocket are General Ramsey’s elaborate inked initials "JR" with the year "1861." His faded name and unit are also penned on the inside of the collar. The body lining is green polished cotton. The tail pockets and sleeves are lined with off-white polished cotton. All eagle "I” buttons are matching with appropriate patina. The coat’s collar measures 2” in height; its sleeve circumference is approximately 18” at the elbow and 10½” at the cuff. Length of the coat from waist seam to the bottom of the skirt is 21½”. The captain's shoulder straps are original to the coat, and are an early war pattern with wide, double border strap and boullion wire wrap.

Until recently, the coat was in a private museum in the south. A small note was found in the skirt pocket, bearing the text of "Marching through Georgia” in General Ramsey’s own hand.

Ramsey enlisted with the highly decorated 5th New Jersey Volunteer Infantry in 1861, and later commanded the 8th New Jersey. He was promoted quickly becoming a Brigadier General in March of 1864 and brevetted Major General in March 1865.

He wore his captain’s coat in the Peninsular Campaign in 1862, and as a colonel later commanded brigades at the great battles fought by the Army of the Potomac, including Chancellorsville (wounded) and also Gettysburg where he was wounded in the Wheatfield. The monument of the 8th New Jersey is inscribed with Colonel Ramsey’s name.